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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.